This can be used as a standalone cuff or as bumpers for a rotator. This cuff uses square stitch, which takes up a lot of string, so be prepared and don't be afraid to tie on more! Square stitch can also be tricky to maneuver and time-consuming, so I recommend you get comfortable with bead weaving in general before taking this project on. Use what you have on hand, but I recommend: - 0.8–1mm cloth-covered elastic cord - Yarn needle Prerequisite knowledge needed: - X-base - How to tie on more string (I recommend putting the ends of your old string and new string side by side, then tying an overhand knot.)
Step 1
Start with a multiple of 6 (30, 36, 42, and so on). This style of cuff is possible with an odd multiple of 3 (such as 33 or 39), but it needs to be an even number for the checkered pattern specifically. I'm starting with 36 for mine. Leave a decent amount of string on both ends. I recommend starting with an armspan's length of string and tying on more as you go. This will help keep it from tangling.
Step 2
Make a 1X base, pulling tightly as you go. Don't tie it off when you're done. This helps strengthen the tension on your string as you add more beads. This is important because a sturdy base will make the square stitch portion easier.
Step 3
Add 5 beads, then pass through the next connector bead. The connector beads are the ones you passed through when you added the row of 2 beads at the top. The color of the third bead is important here because this will be part of the square stitch section. Make this third bead the first color you want for your checkers (white in this case). You can pick whatever color(s) you want for the rest of the beads.
Step 4
Add 5 more beads, then pass through the next connector bead. This time, make the third bead the second color you want for your checkers (pink in this case). Feel free to experiment with multiple colors, of course, but I'm picking a simple color scheme to help illustrate this clearer.
Step 5
Repeat steps 3 and 4 all around the cuff. The tips of each spike should be alternating colors. Pass through the next connector bead, then through three of the beads on the next point.
Step 6
Add 4 beads in alternating colors, then pass through the next point. My string is coming out of a white point, so I'm adding pink first. I will do the reverse when my string is coming out of a pink point. This will be the top row of the square stitch section. Keep pulling tightly. It will get tighter as you pass through more beads, so don't worry if it's not perfect.
Step 7
Keep adding 4 beads all around in alternating colors. When you get to your last set of 4, pass through: 1. the next point 2. the next 2 beads in that same spike 3. the next connector bead Tie it off here and cut the string off.
Step 8
Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the other side. Make sure that the points and the 4 beads in between match the top. Don't cut your string after you tie this side off. This will be the bottom row of the square stitch part, and you will build up from here.
Step 9
Pass through the next connector bead on the bottom, then through three beads on another spike. I recommend picking the spike next to the one you passed through to tie it off. This is because it will be a tighter squeeze if you try to pass through it three times, and that will make the square stitch portion more difficult.
Step 10
Now you will be starting the square stitch portion. This will create the middle row of your checkers. From here on, I will be naming the colors that I'm using to make this clearer. Because you are coming out of a white bead, add 1 pink bead. Pass back through the same white bead.
Step 11
Pass through the pink bead you just added, then add a white bead.
Step 12
Pass through the pink bead underneath, then back through the white bead you just added. (Don't mind the purple blob, I forgot to take a picture of this step until it was too late!)
Step 13
Keep adding beads and looping back around in this same way. Continue until your middle row looks like this. Some tips: - Don't worry if you're having a hard time pulling tight at first. You'll have more chances to pull tight as you add more beads. - If you're having a hard time reaching the holes, try pinching and pulling the bead you're passing through with your non-dominant hand. - This part consumes a lot of time and string. Have patience and keep at it! Don't forget to take breaks as needed.
Step 14
Pass through the next bead in the middle row.
Step 15
Now, you will close the gap between the middle and top rows. Pass through the white bead directly above the pink bead. Then, pass through that same pink bead and the white bead next to it.
Step 16
Pass through the pink bead directly above, then through the white bead below and the next pink bead.
Step 17
Continue weaving through the top and middle rows until you get to this very last gap. From here, pass through the pink bead directly above.
Step 18
Pass through the white bead directly below, then the next pink bead.
Step 19
Flip your cuff over so that the bottom is up. Then, pass through: 1. the point directly below 2. the next 2 beads in the spike 3. the next connector bead Tie the cuff off here as usual.
Step 20
Stick your finger in between the spikes and pinch the checkered part to adjust it, if you'd like.
Now, you have learned how to make a 3D square stitch cuff. This stitch can be used for more than just checkers, so experiment and see how it turns out! Want to make it taller? - 1 more X = 2 more rows of square stitch - Additional ½ X = 1 more row of square stitch Have fun and thanks for viewing! I'd love to see what you create! :]